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Repairing Dryrot...

topic posted Tue, March 24, 2009 - 12:19 PM by 
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Unfortunately my toyhauler is suffering from a bit of dry rot from water leaking into the rear corner seam. Anyone have experience in repairing such things? It's rotted away a small bit of the inside wall. do I just need to replace the rotten wood and the interior panes that covers it? The sheet metal seems fine on the outside, but there's some separation of the rear metal door frame from the side wall and roof which is where the water leaked in.. I'm planning on just clamping it together and pulling it back together with a comealong and throwing more screws into it to hold it together better.

Thoughts?
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  • I've personally not repaired dry rot in a RV yet... this summer I will tho.

    My father has - and the procedure is as you stated. Remove interior paneling, remove dry rot. Make sure there are no gaps, cracks, etc in exterior sheeting, repair if there are, then replace wooden structure as close to original as possible, then interior sheeting. I'd make sure you use a good silicon wherever cracks, seams, screws are, and bob's your uncle.
    • Funny you should ask. The nose in my Class A is fibreglass. The windshield gasket had been leaking for quite some time. Finally after I took a stone to one of the windshields I decided it was time to replace the gaskets and windshield. When we removed the sections of glass we found the wood that was bonded to the glass nose had rotted away. There was no longer any support for the lower windshield line. After a little research we found a bonding agent that is designed to attach plywood to fibreglass. It is epoxy based with an adhesive additive. For bonding the plywood together we used a poly sulfide bonding agent called Life-calk. The key to making this a permanent repair is using the correct adhesives. We used products from a boat repair shop. They deal in fibreglass and wood rot on a daily basis and have the good stuff. It was very time consuming, but the nose feels better than ever before. It sounds better going down the road as well. Just FYI, the Life-calk sets in 24 hours and becomes solid in seven days. The compounds are serious.
      • you can get a 2 part penetrating epoxy that you paint onto the affected wood...this sets it like concrete, i get it from Beronio's in S.F. costs about $50 for half a gallon(it comes in 2, 1 quart tins that you mix together). you will still have to replace the wood that has rotted away completely(obviously;+D) but will take care of any bad spots that are still together that are hard to reach.

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