If your in the hunt for an RV and actively looking than you know that condition is as important as price and the only way to know about condition is to get out and look at as many RV's as you can before making a purchase.

Most sellers have no idea how their rig compares to others and price based on their knowledge of past sales offers and the value they have invested, which tends to have sellers pricing very high in relationship to the actual sales price of the vast majority of the RV's offered for sale. Consider that a smart seller prices as high as 20% over their bottom sales price and might very well take an offer as low as 50% of asking if motivated by a need for an immediate sale. My simple thought is this; buy the best rig at the lowest price. Easier said than done, but if you take a few simple steps it's not hard to find a great deal from a very motivated seller.

Start making low offers based on NADA appraisal value by e-mail for RV's you’re interested in under an alias as a third buyer. This is a great way to plant an offer that a seller may come back to out of necessity for a sale. Could be a week or a month or an hour. It allows you to make an even lower offer on inspection.

Go see local RV's and appraise and learn about the wide variance in condition. Asses the sellers need for a sale. Consider a lowball cash offer for an immediate sale. Pink slip for cash exchange at a bank might sound right to a motivated seller tired of the sales hassle.

Be prepared to walk away from good deals while you learn that fantastic deals are out there.

Be indifferent to a seller's comeback to a lowball offer. Knowing the other rigs available, let's you work one potential sale against another. Work sellers against each other by referring to other currently posted rigs in the same class and price range as being a better deal, fewer miles, new appliances, tires or motor work. A smart seller knows his comps, but rarely takes the time to go see them. A great reply to a seller insulted by your offer is "at the price you’re asking, I would have to go with the other "fill in the blank" RV. Give me a call if you change your mind".

Work a sale towards the appraised value or lower on overpriced but exceptional condition or low mileage rigs. An e-mail offer at average NADA with a link or quote could get a more reasonable counter offer or save you time on a seller who is firm on an unrealistic price.

Reading between the lines in posts can give you a lot of information. "retired and bought a larger trailer" means dealer trade in was low and the seller wants top dollar. This is a fairly common among CL posters. The "I can get more myself attitude" and "appraisal values are way to low". Could be right on both points, but if you base the value of your purchase on the NADA value then you would have made a purchase at a price recognized by professionals and not by the seller and his cronies camp fire talk. A great comeback to a seller after offering at its appraised value or lower is "that's all my bank is willing to loan on your RV". It is also just about all you would get if it was in an accident. Both lending institutions and insurance companies use NADA for appraised value.

If you remember that it's your cash they want, that there are far more sellers than buyers and an offer is just that, then you can be indifferent to the response from an insulted seller and just walk away, the right deal at the right price is what your after, not a new friend.

Free NADA appraisals for late model RV’s:

www2.nadaguides.com/SectionHome.aspx

Buying the appraisal guide for rigs older than 1989 will pay you back in savings on an educated purchase:

www.nadaguides.com/BuyTrade...etail.asp

Be aware of scammers and use anti scam tactics. No down payments or any payment until I see the pink slip and it matches the name of the seller's driver’s license. A seller who can't do that is not going to close a deal with me. If they are selling for a friend or relative, insist that the owner be at the final transaction with a picture ID.

Last year I ran a running monthly thread. Check them out. There is lots of good sales asking price history there. Paine asked me this last year:

“This might seem like a silly question, but why bother reposting all these from Craig's List? If I want an RV, I can just go to CL, type in "RV" and hit search. I mean, it's very nice of you, but it seems somewhat redundant”

I did it because I wanted a place to refer back to and be able to quick link or follow-up on expired listings and recognize reposts. It’s a tool. Consider developing your own using word or excel by cutting and pasting. An e-mail or phone number of a seller who may have given up or is tired of the sales ordeal can lead to that fantastic score from someone who just wants the RV gone and done with.

I'm convinced that every west coast RV must go to Burning Man once before it dies, which is usually on highway 447, Monday at about 2pm. Avoid the one on it’s last leg, looking for a driver to take it to it’s final resting place. A tow will not be cheap or easy to find with thousands of questionable rigs rolling. Break downs and blow outs are no fun but a reality of RV’ing if your rigs not up to the journey. But if a good enough, low price oldie is right for your budget then AAA or Good Sam is a wise investment. Towing is not cheap.

I like AAA Plus. You may need to enter your zip to get the link:

www.csaa.com/portal/site...35492278a0c/

www.goodsamclub.com/benefits/index2.cfm


Be aware that most old RV's will need to have the propane tanks replaced because they don't have an overfill protection device (OPD) and are not to be refilled by propane vendors. Know how to identify an old or new tank:

washingtonstategoodsam.kendra.com/P...tm

You want to see all the appliances working and the tanks holding water. Don’t take a sellers word that they worked the last time out. They are not inexpensive to replace and represent a good deal of what you are paying for. Tire age is more important than condition, so determine when they were purchased. You want them to be less than five years old. If you are not mechanically inclined, then find someone to help in your final decision. It could save you from getting a money pit that you’re stuck with. The value of a broke down RV is ZERO !

If you find this post is helpful or want to add your thoughts or success story, bump it to the top. Happy Hunting !!!

sfbay.craigslist.org/search/rvs